Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin

Whether you want to use your Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin as a place for guests, hobby hideaway, or personal library you'll find the Helsinki is totally capable of delivering. Once the door is closed you'll find yourself in a world of your own. The Finn Life Helsinki is about returning to nature.

The Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin is the ultimate in log cabin design

Super flexy, spacy and airiated. If you have space restrictions then the Helsinki Log Cabin is the answer. The Helsinki is truly a castle in its own right, featuring 5 rooms.

A set of steps leads up from the below to an fantastic storage area upstairs. This space has a million uses that will easily adapt to any of your needs;

The Helsinki Log Cabin will solve all your space problems in one go. There’s room for a business that can be run from home, entertain an endless string of guests, or even have a gym.
Why buy the Finnforest Helsinki Log Cabin?

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood

* 45mm wall logs

* Timber joists

* Pre-cut floor & roof boards

* Roof shingles

* Ready made, fully glazed doors

* Reinforced corners and pre-cut wall battens

* All necessary fixtures and fittings

* Illustrated step-by-step instruction manual

* Outside terrace

* Upstairs space accessed by ladder

* Felt shingle roof.

* Large cabin with 5 internal rooms.

* Incorporates decked terrace area.

* Separate handy loft area for storage.

* French doors and opening windows supplied with double glazed toughened glass.

* Size approx cabin external (H)358, ridge, (W)979, (D)514cm / (H)11ft 9in, (W)32ft, (D)16ft 10in.

* Size internal (H)328, ridge, (W)953, (D)398cm / (H)10ft 9in, (W)31ft 3in, (D)13ft 1in.

* Requires a quality timber treatment after assembly (treatment not included).

* Supplied in kit form containing all the components and instructions required for self assembly.

* Manufactured from Scandinavian whitewood.

* 44mm tongue and groove wall boarding provides additional strength, insulation and resilience to cope with extended year round use.

* Traditional timber tongue and groove ceiling and flooring.

* Wind block system ensures a tight wind-proof seal.

DIMENSIONS
Internal External
Width 9.53m 9.79m
Depth 3.98m 5.15m
Ridge Height - 3.56m
Area 29.97msq 50.39msq

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Finnlife Log Cabin - Building Guide

Those lazy summer days might be beckoning, but don’t rush to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to work out how it is constructed, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No carpentry abilities are required. Anyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Build times will vary depending on your skills and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it yourself!

It’s possible to present this document to a handyman then sit back until he hands over the keys to your brand new Finn Life Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever completes the work, the first step is to get to know these instructions. The plan is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is exceptional. These general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Log Cabin – such as dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Gravel option: Remove all organic debris before you start work on the foundations. Foundations should always be laid larger than the footprint of your Finn Life Log Cabin – 300mm wider in every direction and 6” thick when using dense type gravel. For dense gravel foundations you should use retaining boards to keep the gravel in place and dense.

Before you begin to build you should ensure that you have a full set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check every part put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Put every part near to where it will be utilized. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finn Life Log Cabin goes together and it means that parts are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a guide to what goes where. Be wary not to put parts too close to the Finn Life Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself sufficient room to work in.

Set out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level area so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.

Wall boards have been machined for a perfect fit. Before you use a wall board, it’s a good idea to running a stiff-bristled brush along the grooves and poking the bristles into the joints to remove any stray sawdust. Dust-free joints ensure a better fit. Walls are built by puting wall boards in alternate layers at right angles to each other. Now move the position of the underlying, furthest floor beams. Slide them in a touch so that they do not protrude externally past the edge of the wall, clear on the interior face of the wallboard. The adjustment creates a lip on which the log cabin floorboards will eventually rest.

Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the right gaps so that the ends of the wall boards match the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to ensure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards properly. Set up door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the applicable walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to construct the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s easy to figure out which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the upper architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as finished units with wide grooves the same to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Tap lightly from above to ensure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The bottom half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that divide it into three flaps; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are created by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Set roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an extra measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Set the first row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Alter until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Trim the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Set this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the bottom edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Trim the final shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Set the first shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be parallel with the row below to create an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the middle of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.trim the excess from both ends and keep cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an extra half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the trim pieces you have already saved as the first or final shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the excess over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to create ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To complete each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Complete it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Helsinki Log Cabin

Finnlife Helsinki Log Cabin

Finnlife Log Cabin - Building Guide

Finnlife Models