Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin
The Finnlife Hytti Log Cabin is the only workshop that lets you take up as much space as you like without getting in anyone elses way.
Whether doing it yourself or gardening, each way you'll love that free feeling that comes from having your very own place to work - a place where everything is close at hand.
The Finnlife Hytti has all the room you'll need for tools, a workbench, office equipment, whatever. Plus, there is a door that you can close and let you get on with the things that are really important.
Why buy the Finnforest Hytti Log Cabin?
* Made from Scandinavian White Wood
* Workshop features 19mm thick logs
* A great building for storage
This shed is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers. Shop around for extras and bargains!
DIMENSIONS:
Internal Width: 2.36m (7'8")
External Width: 2.60m (8'8")
Internal Depth: 1.76m (5'9")
External Depth: 2.00m (6'6")
Ridge Height: 2.05m (6'8")
Internal Area: 4.15m² (45 square feet)
External Area: 5.20m² (56 square feet)
How to build a Finnlife Log Cabin
Relaxing, lounging summer days might be calling, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to figure out how it goes together, and you will savour many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are needed. Everyone can build a Finnlife log cabin, although some jobs may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will vary depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!
It’s possible to present this document to a carpenter then relax until he hands over the keys to your finished Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever completes the work, the initial step is to familiarise yourself with these instructions. The knack is to be methodical and to foresee the work ahead. Though Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is exceptional. This set of overall instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.
For features that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as exact dimensions, part numbers, building plans and part lists – you should refer to the individual Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ partially from those found here.
Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the accurate base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to reduce the amount of water that the base will carry. It is recommended that the concrete base be 6 inches thick.
Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you make, a solid and level base is essential. Time spent on the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base may well detract from the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit properly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.
Before you start to build you should ensure that you have a complete set of parts. Check off every part against the part list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing part or that a part has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, quoting the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off every part set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Set every part close to where it will be used. Laying out helps you visualize how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that parts are ready to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to set parts too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself ample room to work in.
Put out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the finished frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite identical. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Slot the joints together loosely and ensure THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS prior to moving on.
Begin with the half-height wall boards. They form the primary and bottom-most level. Put them over the ends of, and at right angles to, the floor beams. Note: If your Finnlife Log Cabin features internal walls, also set the half-height wall boards that make up the bottom-most layer. Refer to the Building Plans and Parts List for assistance.
Pay particular attention to the location of any notches in the wall boards of multi-roomed cabins. The location of these notches determines where the interlocking walls will go. Put the first layer of full-height wall boards across the ends of, and at right anglesto, the half-height wall boards. The overlapping corner joints opening together. Please note that if your full-height boards include spaces for doors, make sure you Put them in the right position.
When laying the roof boards, you will need to temporarily stick an eaves face board to the ridge beam as a guide batten, and use it to ensure that all roof boards finish in a flush ridge line. Mark the mid-point line on the front and rear faces of the ridge beam. Start nailing roof boards on one side of the roof, starting from the front. The leading edge of the first roof board should be set 5mm from the ends of the ridge and roof beams. The topmost end of the roof board should be flush with the temporary ridge-beam guide batten. Nail each roof board to the ridge beam (V-Joint facing downwards) and every roof beam, driving 2 nails per board - per joint in at right angles to the roof slope.
Nail an eaves face board temporarily with nails to the ridge beam so that one edge is flush with the marked mid-point line. Do not hammer in all the way. You will have to remove it later on. When constructing the Finnlife Log Cabin during the summer periods, we advise leaving small gaps between the roof boards to allow expansion of the boards during the winter months. Where constructing during the winter period we would advise knocking the boards together, to alleviate any gap appearing during the hot and dry periods.
Work through, board-by-board to the rear gable. Make sure that the eaves line
made by the lower edges of the roof boards is as straight as possible. The last roof board may project beyond the rear gable. Nail it down lightly and mark on the beneath where it meets the ends of the ridge and roof beams. Remove the final roof board and cut it length ways 5mm inside the marked line. Put it back on the roof and nail down. Take away the temporary guide batten from the ridge beam, then repeat steps for the opposite side of the roof.
Check that the eaves line made by the roof boards is roughly straight. If needed use a cut to remove it flush. Attach the eaves face boards perpendicular to the roof boards, and flush with their upper surface. You need one piece for each side of the cabin. Fix by nailing into the ends of the roof boards with 50mm nails.
Put ridge shingles precisely over the ridge without creasing. Start from the front of the cabin by placing a ridge shingle evenly across the roof ridge so that the tip of the green edge is flush with the leading edge of the roof boards. Secure by driving two clout nails through the black bitumen on either side of the roof ridge. Put the second and subsequent ridge shingles so that the green half completely covers the bitumen of the preceding shingle. In each case, drive clout nails through the black bitumen to fix. You will have placed the last ridge shingle when there is no black bitumen showing after you have trimmed it flush with the rear gable. Nail it to fix.
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Finnlife Models
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