Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

The Finnforest Jarvi Log Cabin

The Finnlife Jarvi is totally ideal for your garden, and like all cabins in the Finnlife range, it can be a very purposeful building.

The Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin has 28mm thick logs for the walls, a one door, and one window. One of the unusual features is the pair of lockable window shutters. During the day you can shelter from the sun and rain underneath the Jarvi's wide canopy; at night you can secure your possessions behind the shutters.

Finnforest log cabins are built using the highest quality sustainable softwood from Scandinavian forests which are well managed and where industry and wildlife coexist harmoniously. The wall logs are layered alternatelytogether with windproof tongue and groove joints, which results in a building thats weatherproof.

Well illustrated, step-by-step instructions come with with your log cabin making assembly easier and simpler to follow. The doors and windows come fully glazed saving you a lot of work. The wood comes packaged in a protective plastic and is in the right order for assembly, thus negating any time consuming reordering.

Finnforest Jarvi Log Cabin Specifications

* Made from Scandinavian White softwood
* 28mm wall logs
* Timber joists
* Pre-cut floor & roof boards
* Roof shingles
* Ready made, fully glazed doors
* Reinforced corners and wall battens
* All necessary fixtures and fittings
* Illustrated instructions
* Wide canopy across the front

Dimensions
Internal: 2.70m x 2.24m (8ft 10in x 7ft 4in)
External: 2.96m x 2.50m (9ft 9in x 8ft 3in
Ridge Height: 2.25m (7ft 5in)
Internal Area: 6.05m² (65 ft²)
External Area: 7.40m² (79 ft²)

This log cabin is also available with underfloor heating from selected retailers.

The Finnforest Jarvi provides:

# A comfortable cabin in your garden that will create a home office away from the hustle and bustle, a guest hideaway, somewhere to chill out - even a sauna.

# Superior 28mm tongue and groove timber wall boarding.

# Pre-hung door and one opening window supplied with styrene glazing.

# Window shutters lockable from the inside.

# Felt shingle roof.

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Constructing a Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

Lovely, lounging summer afternoons may be calling, but don’t hurry to build your Finnlife Log Cabin. Take the time to understand how it is put together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No specialist skills are required. Everyone can build a Finnlife Jarvi log cabin, although some tasks may require more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people helping. Of course you don’t need to do it yourself!

It’s possible to show this document to a carpenter then sit back until he delivers the keys to your brand new Finnlife Log Cabin. Having said that, whoever does the job, the initial stage is to understand fully these instructions. The plan is to be systematic and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many options in common, each model style is unique. These general instructions cover the basics of log cabin construction and apply to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your own Finnlife Log Cabin – such as dimensions, component numbers, building plans and component lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finnlife Helppo, Finnlife Helsinki, Finnlife Joki, Finnlife Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finnlife Seita and Finnlife Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Get rid of organic material before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations should always be the precise base size detailed in the Parts List and Plans instructions to minimize the amount of water that the base will carry. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You are able to erect your Finnlife Log Cabin on foundations of concrete or on compacted gravel. Whichever option you choose, a firm and level base is crucial. Care given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the final outcome of the Finnlife Log Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may stoop and joints may not match up.

Before you start to build you should check that you have a complete set of components. Tick off each component against the component list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing component or that a component has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finnlife Log Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check off each component set them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each component near to where it will be used. Laying out aids you see how the Finnlife Log Cabin is built and it means that components are available to hand when you need them. You can utilize the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to set components too close to the Finnlife Log Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely arrange them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite matching. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Make sure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before moving on.

Pull the frame apart again and squeeze PVA glue into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Press the sides together tightly. Ensure that the frame is square by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess glue from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out thoroughly between wipes to prevent glue smearing onto the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, secure all corners with the screws provided.

Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. The door frames come as complete units with wide grooves cut into the architraves. Slide the frames vertically into the suitable gaps so that the ends of the wall boards fit the grooves. Tap the door frames gently from above to make sure they go all the way to the bottom, but be careful not to exert too much pressure or to twist or distort the frames. Ensure that the doors open outwards effectively. Put in door frames after you have laid 3 layers of short wall boards in the pertinent walls of your cabin. Ensure that the door frames are square and vertical before you continue to erect the cabin walls. Mis-aligned doors will not open properly. Attach handles to the doors.

It’s effortless to tell which way round your windows should go: the outer face has a wider cross-section and the topmost architrave is longer than the one at the bottom. When you have laid the number of boards indicated on your Building Plans and Parts List, start laying shorter-length boards in the walls that contain windows until you have a window-sized gap two or three layers deep.

Windows come as completed units with wide grooves similar to those on the door frames. Slide them vertically into the gaps between the wall boards.Knock lightly from above to make sure they go all the way down. Be careful not to twist or distort the windows. Ensure that the windows open outwards and that the frames are square and vertical. Misaligned windows will not open correctly.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three flaps; the upper half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green flaps at the bottom. Ridge shingles are fashioned by cutting individual roof shingles into thirds. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We recommend that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Move till the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fix the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Finish the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the full length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Retain cut pieces for later use.

Start the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face uppermost and the green flaps at the bottom. Line up the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green flaps are just proud of the roof edge. secure with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Locate these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the last shingle to fit. Retain cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the mid-point of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative flaps align with the tops of the slits between the flaps in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its complete length. That means that the mid-points of the flaps of the current row will align with the gaps between the flaps in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.cut off the excess from both ends and hang on to cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the cut off pieces you have already saved as the first or last shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the flaps right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Jarvi Log Cabin

Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

Constructing a Finnlife Jarvi Log Cabin

Finnlife Models