Finnlife Mirva Log Cabin

The wide roomed and spacious Finnforest Mirva Log Cabin comes provided with tough shingle roof, and is available with the option of under floor heating from selected retailers - see individual sites for further details!

The Finnforest Mirva has a set of two outward-opening windows, twin apertures and extra panels; all of which are fully glazed. The walls and floor are constructed using 28mm thick logs, the walls have an interlocking layer design at the corners that is both decorative and aids in making the log cabin building more sturdy. The roof overhangs at the front, which makes is great for use as a veranda, and is covered in shingles giving both attractiveness and durability.

TECHNICAL INFORMATION

Windows
Mirva 2 side opening windows
Mirva with underfloor heating 2 side opening windows

Door Opening Size (w x h)
Mirva 0cm 0cm
Mirva with underfloor heating 0cm 0cm

Material Pine

Cladding Style Tongue and Groove Interlocking Boards

Glazing Material
Mirva Styrene
Mirva with underfloor heating Styrene

Floor Material Tongue & Groove

Roof Material Tongue & Groove

Cladding Width
Mirva 2.8cm
Mirva with underfloor heating 2.8cm

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Build the Finnlife Mirva Log Cabin

The slow summer days might be calling, but don’t rush to construct your Finnlife Log Cabin. Spend the time to get to know how it is put together, and you’ll enjoy many years of trouble-free pleasure. No construction knowledge are needed. Anyone can erect a Finnlife Mirva log cabin, although some tasks may need more than one pair of hands. Construction times will alter depending on your experience and the number of people who help you. Of course you don’t have to do it alone!

You may show this document to a carpenter then relax until he hands over the keys to your finished Finn Life Cabin. However, no matter who completes the work, the initial step is to get to know these instructions. The trick is to be disciplined and to foresee the work ahead. Although Finnlife log cabins share many features in common, each model style is inimitable. This set of general instructions cover the basics of wooden cabin construction and are applicable to all Finn Forest cabins.

For items that are unique to your Finn Life Cabin – such as dimensions, piece numbers, building plans and piece lists – you should refer to the separate Building Plans and Parts List. If you are building cabins Finn Life Helppo, FinnLife Helsinki, Finn Life Joki, Finn Life Kesa, Finnlife Pori, Finn Life Seita and Finn Life Valo be aware that certain instructions may differ slightly from those found here.

Concrete option: Remove all organic matter before you start work on the foundations. Concrete foundations must always be the precise base size stated in the Parts List and Plans instructions to lessen the amount of water that the base will hold. It is suggested that the concrete base be six inches thick.

Foundations and preparation: You can assemble your Finn Life Cabin on foundations of concrete or on dense gravel. Whichever option you choose, a solid and level base is critical. Time given to the foundations is well spent. An uneven or unstable base will detract from the final outcome of the Finn Life Cabin. Doors and windows will not fit exactly, walls may bow and joints may not fit together.

Before you begin to erect you should check that you have a complete set of pieces. Check off each piece against the piece list in the Building Plans and Parts List as you remove it from the transit packaging. In the unlikely event that there is a missing piece or that a piece has been damaged in transit get in touch with the distributor, stating the Finn Life Cabin reference number shown on the packing label of the transit packaging. As you check each piece put them out on the ground around the site of the log cabin. Place each piece close to where it will be used. Laying out aids you visualize how the Finn Life Cabin goes together and it means that pieces are ready to hand when you need them. You can use the Building Plans and Parts List as a scheme to what goes where. Be careful not to put pieces too close to the Finn Life Cabin footprint. Give yourself adequate space to work in.

Lay out the four sides of the door frame on a clean and level surface so that the doors open outwards. Loosely place them to match the completed frame. The top and bottom jambs are not quite the same. Place the one with the Lock RECESS AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM. Ensure that the door cills go behind the doors. Put the joints together loosely and check THAT YOU CAN STILL OPEN THE DOORS before proceeding.

Pull the frame apart again and squeeze PVA adhesive into the joints at the end of each frame piece. Press the sides together tightly. Ensure that the frame is square by measuring the cross-diagonals. Wipe away all excess adhesive from the frame. Use a damp cloth and rinse it out thoroughly between wipes to prevent adhesive smearing over the frame. When you are happy that the frame is square, fasten all corners with the screws provided.

Continue laying wall boards in line with to the layout of the Building Plans and Parts List you will have received with your order. The ending few layers of side wall boards in some cabins are longer. The lengths increase iteratively to offer support to an overhanging canopy. Lay angled gable boards in sequence beginning with the longest. Take care with the alignment of the angled gable boards. The sloped roof line should be symmetrical and even at both gable ends. Use nails at both end to fix each layer of gable boards to the layer below. Hammer nails in at an angle through the sloped ends of the gable boards.

Constructing the gable ends indicates a succession of openings for the roof beams. As each opening appears, tap in a roof beam. Ensure that the angled side of each roof beam lies flush with the angle of the gable. Nail through into the gable boards to fasten. Tap the ridge beam into place at the apex of the gable ends. Fasten by nailing into the topmost gable board. Slide ridge and roof beam extension pieces over the exposed ends of the beams at both ends of the cabin. Make sure that the upper surfaces of the beams and the extension pieces are flush, then fasten by nailing from either side. Fix the wall board extension pieces to the ends of the topmost wall boards in the same way.

Roofing shingles are rectangular. The lower half of the face side is a decorative green with slits that split it into three surfaces; the top half is black and coated with bitumen. With the exception of the first row, all shingles are laid with the green surfaces at the bottom. Ridge shingles are made by cutting individual roof shingles into three. Lay roof shingles when the temperature is above 5°C. We suggest that you use a bitumen shingle adhesive on the underneath of the tiles. This would be an additional measure to ensure longevity of the shingle life.

Lay the initial row of shingles with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the top. Place the first shingle so that one side aligns with the right-hand edge of the roof and the black bitumen overhangs the eaves face board. Adjust until the edge of the black bitumen extends about 10mm out from the edge of the eaves face board.The 10mm overhang is known as the 'water drop edge'. Fasten the shingle with four clout nails driven through the bitumen patches on the shingle into the roof boards. Complete the row by laying more shingles edge-to-edge until the complete length of the eaves is covered. Remove the excess from the left-hand end of the roof. Hang on to cut pieces for later use.

Begin the second row from the left-hand end. Lay this row (and all subsequent rows) with the green/black face topmost and the green surfaces at the bottom. Align the second row of shingles so that the lower edge of the green surfaces are just proud of the roof edge. fasten with four clout nails driven through the lower green part. Put these nails just below the line that separates black bitumen from decorative green. Properly located nails will be obscured by subsequent layers of shingles. Remove the ending shingle to fit. Hang on to cut pieces for later use. Lay the initial shingle in row three so that the middle of the left-hand flap aligns with the edge of the roof. Adjust its height until the tips of the decorative surfaces align with the tops of the slits between the surfaces in the row below.

Nail down the shingle. From now on each row has to be aligned with the row below to make an even pattern. Start every row from the left hand end of the roof. In each case the first shingle in the row must be offset to the left by half a flap, that is by 16 of its overall length. That means that the centre of the surfaces of the current row will align with the gaps between the surfaces in the row below. Continue laying shingle sheets from left to right, edge-to-edge, to complete a full row.remove the excess from both ends and retain cut pieces for later use. Continue putting rows of shingles from left to right, giving each row an additional half-flap offset to the left. Where possible, use the remove pieces you have already saved as the first or ending shingles in the row. When you reach the final row, the upper edge of the shingles will extend beyond the roof ridge. Bend the extra over the ridge and nail it down. Cut several roof shingles into thirds to make ridge shingles. Cut them by extending the slits between the surfaces right through the bitumen layer. You may do the same with other trimmed pieces left over from lower rows. To finish each ridge shingle you should taper the half containing the black bitumen. BeginStart the taper at the point where the original slit ended. Finish it at the furthest edge of the black bitumen. Take the taper in about 10mm at either side of the bitumen.

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Finnlife Models

Finn-Life Mirva Log Cabin

Finnlife Mirva Log Cabin

Build the Finnlife Mirva Log Cabin

Finnlife Models